Trip to Mount Athos
May 2008
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![]() The boat for the Eastern monasteries at Ierissos |
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![]() The mobile office of the Holy Executive of the Holy Mountain. They issue your Diammoniterion (pernut to stay) if you are on the list. |
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![]() The long "thumb" of the Holy Mountain, the northward peninsular which is almost uninhabited | |
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![]() The tip of the peninsular | |
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![]() Looking back to the tip | |
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![]() Shore-side buildings of Hilandari monastery |
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![]() An ancient arsenal |
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![]() First view of Esfigmenou Monastery | |
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![]() Coming in to Vatopedi Monastery | |
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![]() Panorama from the jetty | |
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![]() The central cross-roads of the monastery - treasury and office building | |
![]() with the main church (Katholikon)l to the right |
![]() Our bedroom with four beds | |
![]() ..........and an amazing ceiling |
![]() starting off to walk, unsuccessfully, to Zografou Monastery | |
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![]() beehives and distant view of Vatopedi | |
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![]() Sloping courtyard in Vatopedi | |
![]() The mosaic underside of the dome |
![]() Dinner (vegetarian; always very fresh and very good) on our first day | |
![]() Visiting Roumanian bishop with his entourage |
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![]() Wall plaque of great antiquity Staircase to the Guest House (right) |
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![]() Vatopedi, and many other monasteries, have a large current programme of building and restoration work |
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Second day - Walk to Pantocrator Monastery | ||
![]() The community shop in a recently restored building |
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![]() Pause by a dry fountain (right) |
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![]() Pantocrator appears in view | |
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![]() Signposting on the Holy Mountain is a bit erratic, though the British Friends of Mount Athos are making efforts to improve it (as here) and also to keep the footpaths clear | |
![]() A ruined aqueduct |
![]() View of Mount Athos from the belvedere at Pantocrator | |
![]() Entrance with very ancient door |
![]() Interesting roof and balcony | |
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![]() Starting back by the forest path alongside the coast |
![]() .... with more views of Mount Athos | |
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![]() Vatopedi comes in sight |
![]() Icons in the outer narthex at Vatopedi | |
![]() We were kindly shown the Monastery treasures (which are not allowed to be photographed) |
![]() but we could photograph their magnificent collection of clocks | |
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![]() Antique lock for the door Stunning floor tiles and carpets | |
![]() The mechanism for the Monastery clock, made in London in 1595. The clocks are set to "Mount Athos time" where sunset is 12 o'clock; they are reset when the time of sunset is more than an hour away from 12. |
![]() The present mechanism was made in Vienna | |
Third day - Walk to Esfigmenou Monastery | ||
![]() Setting out from Vatopedi |
![]() The first 200 metres is along the sea wall, followed by this ascent. | |
![]() A dry fountain - you need to carry water on Mount Athos! |
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![]() Spring honeysuckle and stunning coastal views | |
![]() with occasional reminders of the outside world...... |
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![]() The path turns inland up a dry river bed |
![]() Many flowers, shrubs and small trees on this route | |
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![]() One of the kalderimi - paths for mules and people made from carefully-laid stones |
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![]() The boundary marker for Vatopedi | |
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![]() Good signposts today | |
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![]() First view of the schismatic monastery of Esfigmenou | |
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![]() Vine-covered arbours in th monastery |
![]() The monastery walls fall almost sheer into the sea | |
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![]() Back at Vatopedi, after seven hours hard walking | |
![]() The hideous fate which awaits the unrighteous..... |
![]() to be half-eaten by ravening beasts | |
Fourth day - Visit to Iviron and to Koutloumousiou Monasteries | ||
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![]() View of Pantocrator from seaward, with the Skiti of Profitis Iias in the far distance. | |
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![]() View of Stavronikita Monastery (which we did not visit) | |
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![]() Iviron appears, after a bumpy passage |
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![]() Lovely pattern of balconies The church (Katholikon) (right) . This monastery does not allow non-orthodox visitors into its church |
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![]() Careful conservation of rainwater | |
![]() .... for the monastic fields |
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![]() Wayside chapel | |
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![]() A friendly irridescent green beetle | |
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![]() Another dry fountain | |
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![]() Another view of Mount Athos |
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![]() The courtyard of Koutloumousiou monastery |
![]() Wall painting in the narthex | |
![]() Floor panel with 3 deer |
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![]() The offices of the Holy Executive of the Holy Mountain in Karyes |
![]() Main street of Karyes - no madding crowd here | |
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![]() (left) the bell tower of the Protaton in Karyes - the church is again undergoing restoration (above) we returned by taxi, and stopped for this distant view of Pantocrator | |
![]() Mount Athos with broom |
![]() Ruins of the 18th century Athonite Academy and aqueduct above Vatopedi | |
![]() Vatopedi again |
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![]() (left) the very striking angel in the refectory, surmounted by an angel, all wings and mind | |
Fifth day - Leaving the Holy Mountain | ||
![]() Waiting for the boat - we took the slow ferry in order to call at all the monasteries along the northern section of the western shore |
![]() Main street of the port of Dafni, very little changed from 2001 | |
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![]() Views from the immense height of the top deck of the ferry | |
![]() First port of call - the Russian monastery of Pandeleimonos |
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![]() Xenofondos Monastery |
![]() The arsenal | |
![]() The arsenal of Dochiariou Monastery |
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![]() The arsenal of Konstamonitou Monastery |
![]() The arsenal of Zografos Monastery (the one we never got to on the first day) | |
![]() A group of enthusiatic Bulgarians singing |
![]() The ecological impact of monastic management - Mount Athos covered with trees; the brick building marks the border between the self-governing community of the Holy Mountain and the Greek state. | |
![]() Immediately to the left of this, the countryside is less treed |
![]() and to the left again, there is extensive development and even fewer trees | |
![]() ending up with Ouranopolis and its distinctive tower |
![]() and the pligrims and monks (all male) streaming off the boat |